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Scrolling Information FAQ |
Which Blade? The age-old question among scrollers is "what blade do I use?" The answer is, it depends. There are many variables that effect your choice. Below are answers to some common questions you will hopefully find informative.
What saw do you use?
Every scroll saw has it's own "quirks". Some saws have a more aggressive sawing action than others. The test cuts used to describe the blades here, were done on a DeWalt scroll saw. If you have any of the many other saws, your experiences may be different.
How detailed is your pattern?
For the most part use the biggest blade that will do the detail on that particular pattern. The larger blades will cut easily, and last longer than a smaller blade. If there are areas in your pattern that need a smaller blade, use it. It's quite acceptable to use more than one size blade to cut your project.
How thick is the material you are sawing? Thin blades cut thin material, thicker blades cut thicker material. The blade needs to have enough teeth in the wood at all times to make the cut controllable. If you are sawing thin wood it is often better to stack cut, as the blades perform more predictably if they have enough wood to cut. Cutting anything in 1/8" wood is a challenge, as there is so little resistance to the cut. Stack 3 layers, and the same cut goes much easier as the blade has real work to do.
What is your skill level?
Beginner? You just got a scroll saw, and are eager to learn? You are just learning how to follow the cut lines. You found out it's not quite as easy as it looked when you watched a pro do the same thing. First off, relax. Even the pro was a beginner once. Everyone starts there. You want a blade that is durable, that cuts predictably, and isn't too aggressive. Expect to make mistakes. Start with projects that are simple, where the curves aren't so tight. You can use bigger blades that are tough enough to handle your attempts to control them.
Intermediate? You've had your saw long enough to get comfortable? Ahhh....freedom. Following the lines isn't so hard anymore. You are starting to chose more complicated projects. You can pretty much cut any pattern you want to. This is a great time to experiment with different blade types and sizes. Try lots of them. Find out what works best with your saw, and your style. Try different materials, learn about wood. Some wood is soft, some so hard and dense it won't float. A blade that cuts pine great, may not do well sawing purpleheart.
Advanced or Pro? You want real sawing challenges, or you want to make $$ with your scrolling. You can saw whatever you want. You know what you like, what works for you. You can follow a cut line exactly, and you know how to cover up minor errors. Maybe your goal is to make the Best of Show piece for the next SAW contest. You want blades that cut predictably, smoothly, and that leave little fuzz on the backside for you to sand off. Burn marks on edges and inside corners that aren't precise just won't get the blue ribbon. Do you have fall craft shows coming, and you need many projects to be ready?Blades that cut fast, and leave smooth edges are expected. You need blades that will cut 5-6 layers of 1/8" baltic birch plywood. All that glue is tough on sharp edges, the blades need to hold up to it. Is cherry one of your favorite woods? Cherry burns so easy...and those burn marks look awful. Packing tape over your pattern eliminates much of it....but a blade that stays sharp, and isn't too big generates less heat.
What exactly are you doing?
For most "scroll" projects, a #12 blade is too big to really be of much use. However, if you do some furniture building, they can come in handy. Like for sawing a thru mortice in a small table leg. It isn't the traditional way to do that job, but if it's within the size limits of what a scroll saw can do, it sure works well.
What is your personal preference?
In the end, what blade works for you is the "best" blade for any scroll project. |
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CA Glue is one of the handiest items to keep in a shop. I learned about it many years ago, during the first woodturning class I took. For those of you new to it's many uses, and it's quirks, here are a few of them. 1. Thin Penetrating, Medium Gap Filling, Thick Gap Filling, which do you want to use? Thin is like water, it soaks into wood, or wicks into hairline cracks. Cure time is a few seconds. Medium is a good, general purpose adhesive. It cures a bit slower, doesn't drip or run easily, and fills small gaps. -
Thick has the slowest cure time, will fill gaps well, and doesn't drip.
2. Accelerator cures CA glue of any thicknesses instantly. Thick areas will skin over, then cure through. Too much accelerator will make the CA foam as it cures. A light spritz is all that is needed. 3. If you glue your fingers together or to an object, Debonder, patience and soap/water will get them apart. Don't try to pull stuck fingers apart, you will loose hide. Think "peel" them apart. Cured glue will wear off fingers in a day or two. 4. CA gives off unpleasant fumes when it cures. Use with good ventilation. Once you've had a whiff of the fumes, you'll know what I'm talking about, and will avoid them in the future. 5. Shelf life: CA has good shelf life. Keeping it cool will extend it's shelf life. Store it in the refrigerator if you only use it occasionally. Using it often? You'll use it up before it cures in the bottle. The spout has a tendency to clog with cured glue. Make sure all the glue has drained back into the bottle before you replace the cap. If you use it daily, just leave the cap off. Always buy extra caps, you will eventually need a new one. 6. Corian© and other solid surface materials: CA glue sticks plastics FAST. Don't expect to move or align your parts at all after applying the glue. Line them up first, secure with clamps, packing tape or whatever. I use an X-acto knife to pick up a small amount of glue, then touch it to the joint. The glue will wick between the parts. A small syringe will also neatly apply thin CA. 7. Filling knot holes: there are many ways to use CA glue for minor repairs, but this is a favorite. Get brass filings, pack them into the knot hole, then drip Thin CA glue in the hole. If the hole is deep, do it in layers. Brass filings can be found in a key making machine. You can also fill holes with sawdust and CA glue.
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